When HN users recommended it
1 HN user recommended this in 2026, in one comment.
20072026
Each tall tick is one HN user's first recommendation. A short tick is the same user again. Click a tick to jump to the comment.
1 HN user recommended this in 2026, in one comment.
Each tall tick is one HN user's first recommendation. A short tick is the same user again. Click a tick to jump to the comment.
It's hard to make a sweeping statement, but I can tell you that I more or less use USB-C exclusively in all my hardware designs now, and I've found that most of these “decoy boards” work well enough. The model I use[1] most often supports basic the USB-C protocol well, is easy to solder to (and remove from) an existing PCB, and is pretty robust.
I cannot stress enough how convenient being able to “plug and play” USB-PD power in an existing project is. Whenever I send a finished device to a client, I no longer have to worry about having to source a compatible power brick, or about them misplacing it. Not to mention that, for the simpler projects, I can literally get a 20W power puck from IKEA that has really good performance and costs all of $5 (Canadian). On top of that, if I find that I need more voltage, I can just change a jumper on the decoy board and I'm ready to go.
The only thing I wish more of these boards came with is better overcurrent protection; with PPS so common these days, it would be pretty easy to let the user choose an appropriate current cutoff. Oh well!
[1] https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0CNVN1N3J?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_d...